The best way for airgunners to shoot grey squirrels in good numbers is with a feeding station – and, as far as I am concerned, the best bait to put in your feeders is peanuts. Cheaper offerings such as wheat, maize and sunflower hearts will attract squirrels but, in the head to head tests I have conducted, peanuts always have more pulling power and result in more effective pest control – especially if you need to draw squirrels away from other food sources like pheasant feeders or natural crops of acorns or beechmast.
Get the basic premise right and you don’t need fancy equipment to shoot lots of squirrels, which is the ultimate aim when working to reduce the damage these invasive rodents cause to trees and the negative impact they have on vulnerable native species such as dormice and songbirds. For the outing featured here, I was using a Walther Rotex RM8 UC airgun paired with a fairly basic Richter Optik scope. Paired with H&N Baracuda 8 airgun pellets, this comparatively simple combo is very accurate and more than capable of delivering clean kills out to 40 metres.
Your feeder is the most important piece of kit for this type of squirrel shooting. You can make your own along the lines of a bird box with a hole at the front from which your feed can spill into a shallow tray. If you do take the DIY path, make sure your feeder has sufficient capacity to save you from making constant trips to refill it and use metal to reinforce the area around the outlet because squirrels will chew through wood out of frustration if it runs empty.
For the past year or so, I have been using squirrel feeders made by Keith’s High Seats. These all-metal feeders are not cheap, but they are very well made and will give years of dependable service – they also feature a hinged lid that will save you money by preventing birds from stealing your peanuts. Keith Watson, who makes these feeders, does a lot of grey squirrel control and really knows his stuff.
To attract lots of squirrels you need to position your feeder in an area where you have seen plenty of squirrel activity. This could be actual sightings or signs such as dreys or tree damage. Another important consideration for siting your feeder is ensuring that it will be within clear view of a place where you can build your hide but not in an area that is so open that it makes squirrels feel vulnerable to attacks by predators such as foxes or raptors. Also make sure that your hide site gives you a good view of the ground beneath the feeder, so you can quickly check that shot squirrels are cleanly killed.
I prefer to fasten my feeder to a tree that has plenty of interlocking branches connecting it to other trees – routes that squirrels can use to approach. I fix it high enough off the ground to keep it out of reach of deer and badgers but low enough for me to refill it without too much strain.
Check with your landowner to find out how they would like you to fasten your feeder. Some may be happy for you to nail it to low value trees while others will want you to use rope or cable. If you do use nails, remember to remove them when you finish because, left in the tree, they pose a serious danger to chainsaw operators.
Once positioned, your feeder can be filled. As I’ve said, peanuts are my favourite bait. They cost more than most of the alternatives, but I genuinely believe that, when it comes to the ratio of pounds spent to squirrels killed, they offer the best value. If you are getting better results with a different bait, stick with it.
I usually leave my feeder for four or five days after filling it for the first time. When I return to check it, there will hopefully be some tell-tale brown peanut husks discarded on the ground beneath it – a sure sign of feeding grey squirrels. Assuming that squirrels have been visiting, I will refill the feeder and leave it for a few more days but it is very important not to let it run empty. The aim is to create a place where squirrels know they can always find a tasty meal – if they find it empty there is a risk of them backing off and finding another food source.
As a general rule, I usually wait two weeks before shooting a feeder for the first time. The activity of squirrels coming and going will attract the attention of others and this will help numbers to really build.
If a feeder has had no attention after one week, it is probably in the wrong place and should be moved. If squirrels appear to be visiting, I go ahead and set up my hide in readiness for the first ambush.
The key factor when siting your hide is that you have a clear view of the feeder from a comfortable shooting distance. If you only feel confident of shooting accurately out to 20 metres, just build your hide 20 metres from the feeder.
Squirrels can become very bold when they have a taste for peanuts, so a simple hide will usually suffice. I like to use Camo Systems netting as the main screen for my hide as it is light to carry and doesn’t rot if it gets wet. My usual preference is to construct my hide about a week before my first shoot so the squirrels have time to grow accustomed to its presence.
It is important to have a good backdrop to prevent your outline from showing, so I like to position my hide in front of a wide tree trunk or steep bank. Props for your hide net can be as simple as hazel sticks, or you can buy specialist hide poles. I like to keep the top of my hide open so I can see squirrels approaching through the treetops and will sometimes dress my camo netting with foliage if I feel I need more cover. Check with the landowner before you cut any vegetation to dress your hide.
Assuming that your feeder is receiving plenty of attention from squirrels and you have kept it topped up for a couple of weeks, your first shoot should be quite productive. Timing can be very important and, as a general rule, grey squirrels tend to feed hardest during the first two hours of daylight and then again from an hour or two before sunset.
Approach your hide quietly and settle in with minimal disturbance. I always take a beanbag seat with me for ambushes like this, as it makes the wait more comfortable. It is also a good idea to take a drink and something to eat on longer stakeouts.
Because you know the distance to the feeder and will be presented with a static target, taking accurate shots should be quite straightforward. It is also very easy to boost the accuracy of your shot placement by taking supported shots from shooting sticks. I am a big fan of Primos Trigger Sticks – the lightweight Gen 3 model is my first choice for most applications but I was using the sturdier Primos Trigger Stick Apex Carbon Fibre Tripod for this shoot. Whatever gun support you go for, make sure that you are set up in a way that requires minimal movement to take a shot.
Don’t be in too much of a hurry to shoot when squirrels arrive to feed. They can be restless when they first reach the feeder but will settle down once they have taken a peanut. At this point, they will usually hunch over and pick off that dry papery husk. Engaged in this task, squirrels will be dead still, offering a motionless target and a straightforward opportunity for you to take a clean head shot.
Calibre choice and pellet design tends not to make a great deal of difference as long as you can land your projectile in the right place. Choose ammo that is accurate through your gun and enables you to confidently hit squirrels either between the eyes or between the eye and ear, and you should achieve a swift dispatch every time.
You can usually leave dead squirrels where they drop. New arrivals may initially be slightly unsettled by their presence, but the lure of the peanuts usually takes over once they have a taste for them.
The first thing to do when your session draws to a close is to pick up your shot squirrels. Squirrel meat is very good to eat and tastes similar to chicken. If you don’t want to eat them, or if you have a surplus, you local birds of prey centre will probably be glad to have them – and because your squirrels are head shot, the staff only need to remove their heads to avoid any risk of lead contamination.
Refill you feeder and ensure that it doesn’t run empty before your next visit. The likelihood is that your first couple of visits will yield the biggest bags and numbers will gradually dwindle as you drive down the number of squirrels in the immediate vicinity.
Keep shooting until the squirrels stop coming, at which point it’s time to move your feeder to another spot. By adopting a methodical approach and dividing your shooting permission into a grid through which you can gradually work, you should soon make a significant impression on the population of grey squirrels. Keep up with your efforts because numbers can soon bounce back if you take the pressure off an allow squirrels to regain their foothold.
Buy or build a feeder that is up to the job. It needs to be robust and have a good capacity.
Don’t skimp on bait. Peanuts may not be the cheapest but they usually give the best results.
Maintain the food supply. Don’t let your feeder run empty as squirrels may back away.
Choose the right area. Squirrels won’t visit a feeder that’s in the wrong place – especially if it makes them vulnerable to predators.
Ensure easy shots. Don’t overstretch your ranges and make the most of gun support.
Get your timings right. Try to be in your hide at the times when squirrels are most likely to visit.
Use an accurate setup. Your gun, scope, ammo combo needs to deliver clean kills.
Respect your surroundings. Check with the landowner before setting up a feeder or cutting back vegetation.
Make the most of shot squirrels. Use the meat from the squirrels you shoot or pass them on to someone who will.
GUN: Walther Rotex RM8
SCOPE: Richter Optik 3-9x42 AO
FEEDER: Keith’s High Seats
HIDE NET: Camo Systems
AMMO: H&N Baracuda 8
GUN SUPPORT: Primos Trigger Stick Apex
JACKET: Jack Pyke Rannock Jacket
First published 27th January 2025
